I see surfing as an analogy for life.
I paddle into the chaotic white-water made by in-coming waves in order to get beyond the impact zone. Once outside I wait for the right wave and once chosen, I paddle like crazy to catch the wave (I’m on a foam boogie board so its harder and slower than a fiberglass board) as it rises up. Soon, the wave’s energy is strong enough to push me forward and I slice down the face of the wave. Exhilarated, I paddle back out.
I see the white-water as my limitations and the ride as the goal. I often must push through the bumpy, messy white-water of life in order to reach my goal. The bigger the waves, the more dangerous and difficult it is getting through the limitations. But the bigger the waves, the more rewarding the ride.
